We always start our festive celebrations on Christmas Eve. Once all the preparations are completed some time in the afternoon, we get changed, lock the doors, pop some champagne and head into the sitting room with a plate of nibbles ready for a happy family session of present sharing. We started doing this before we had children and it is now firmly part of our festive family ritual, in fact H was looking forward to our “front room party” more than Christmas Day itself! It gives us some quality time to enjoy our presents without the chaos of entertaining or visiting which Christmas Day involves and the boys actually get to play with their present before ripping into the next parcel.
The nibbles included cheese straws, mini pizzas, cocktail sausages baked in (home made) mango chutney, mushroom crostini (topped with a mushroom pate from a John Tovey recipe) and Chard & Feta Parcels from Sarah Raven’s Garden Cookbook, zipped up with some added chilli.
Once the boys have put out the reindeer food and a mince pie & glass of single malt for Santa and are tucked up in bed with their empty stockings awaiting his impending visit, we end the evening with a special meal, often steak, with a nice bottle of red wine. It has to be said that in recent years, this has got later and later and dessert has now been forgone, but it is a good excuse to take some time out from the festive madness and enjoy a meal together.
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This year’s menu centred around a beautiful venison loin that I had bought at the recent village market from Chanctonbury Game served with a blackberry sauce made using a locally made blackberry liqueur. This was accompanied by the last of our salad potatoes oven baked, some greens and the most amazing Parsnip Puree with Bourbon
from Sara Raven’s Garden Cookbook (p427). Not only did this taste wonderful but it was a great way to use up the offcuts from the marvellously misshapen parsnips that we had grown at the allotment and were serving with the turkey the next day. It was a lovely meal; seasonal, home grown or local and very tasty!
So to Christmas Day, and we were hosting. I had been a bit organised and made the bread sauce and cranberry compote in advance (both recipes from Sarah Raven’s Complete Christmas, and both recipes made at least twice more than was needed!).
It’s turkey all the way for us and as last year, I bought a 6kg Kelly Bronze turkey; delivered direct to the door and absolutely wonderful with the most succulent, tender meat. I cooked it simply with some seasoning, herb butter
rubbed under the skin and a couple of halved clementines in the cavity. It was roasted breast side down at 180c without foil then turned the right way up for the last half an hour. I had read that this is the best method for turkeys as their different structure prefers not to be started off in a hot oven as one would a chicken and it seemed to do the trick. The only thing I would change next year is to wrap the legs in some foil, or at least make sure they are better tied in to the better as they were a little overdone.
The bacon wrapped chipolatas came from the butchers at Handcross and were very nice. Stuffing was a recipe from Nigella’s Christmas series last year using gingerbread and bacon and made a change to a sausage meat based version. other accompaniments were sprouts with a lemon & parsley crumb topping and a (jamie Oliver inspired) medley of oven roasted vegetables including our mutant parsnips, allotment grown chioggia, the first of our fennel (which were almost too beautiful to cut) with some shop bought carrots (very disappointing that these weren’t home grown).
After such a rich meal we had a sea breeze sorbet shooter which really cleaned the palate. This was a home made sorbet of pink grapefruit with some added cranberry juice topped (for the adults at least!) with a shot of limoncello!
I offered a choice of desserts: Cranberry Cheesecake and chocolate figgy pudding with white chocolate brandy sauce and gold leaf (from Xmas scans p 58). They were both delicious, the steamed chocolate pudding being particularly light and yet with enough of a Christmas pudding feel about it. Unfortunately the sauce was a bit too thin, but i think had it been given a bit longer to cool down it would have been much improved (being greedy gits, we couldn’t wait that long!). The cheesecake some how survived the bottom falling out of the tin and was very popular. This is the recipe:
Festive Cranberry Cheesecake
serves 6-8
15g golden caster sugar
1/2 orange
2 sheets gelatine
50ml cointreau
150g digestive biscuits
35g butter (at room temperature)
300g cream cheese
2 x 150g pots greek yogurt
35g icing sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
Place the cranberries in a small pan with the caster sugar, juice and finely grated zest of the orange. Bring to a simmer then cook gently for about 5 minutes until the cranberries start to pop. Puree the fruit in a blender then sieve to remove any pips & skin. Set aside until cool.
Put the biscuits and soft butter into a food processor and whizz until you have a fine crumb with the butter evenly dispersed (this saves on the washing up involved with melting the butter!). Tip into a greased 18cm loose bottomed tin, press down and chill until needed.
Beat the cream cheese, icing sugar, vanilla and yogurt in a bowl until they are smooth. Soak the gelatine leaves in a small amount of cold water and while it is softening, gently heat the cointreau in a pan but do not boil. Remove the gelatine from the water and squeeze out any excess liquid. Drop this into the warm liqueur and stir gently until it has all dissolved. Once completely dissolved, stir this into the cheese mixture and pour it into the tin on top of the biscuit base. Add the pureed cranberries in dots around the top and swirl in gently using a spoon handle. Chill for at least 2 hours until serving then carefully remove it from the tin and for a bit of bling scatter silver balls over the top.
My final Christmas tip concerns mince pies. I make these every year, either mini tarts in shortcrust pastry or puff pastry lidded pies, both of which inevitably leak and get stuck to the tin. last year I tried an idea for mini eccles cakes using circles of puff pastry but this involved lots of rerolling and excess pastry with each pie. This year I think I have come upon the solution! In an attempt to make them simple enough for the children to help, I have found the perfect shape that is quick, waste free, looks good and eats well.
Using ready rolled bought puff pastry, give the rectangle a little roll to make it slightly larger, then cut into 12 rectangles and place a small blob of mincemeat on one end of each rectangle. with the tip of your finger, wet along 3 sides, and in the same way as making ravioli, fold over the spare pastry, gently pressing with the side of your little finger to exclude any air. To seal and make it look pretty, press round the sides with a fork then add a couple of small slashes to the top to allow air to escape. Simply nip off 2 corners to make it look pretty, brush with egg glaze, sprinkle with sugar and bake in a hot oven for 10 minutes (they can also be frozen before or after baking). Et voila! mince pies in 20 minutes – even a child could do it, and in fact they did!


